Franz Josef to Picton |
After the
drama of the morning in Franz Josef, we packed up in the afternoon to head to
Greymouth a couple of hundred kilometers further up the coast in the hope of
cutting some time of the following day’s journey to Picton.
We left
Franz Josef in glorious sunshine and blue skies and by the end of the afternoon
we had arrived in Greymouth that was living up to its name. The rain lashed
down from the dirtiest of skies, grey clouds blurring the lines between skies
and the ocean horizons. Maybe we caught
it on a bad day, maybe I’m being unfair, but Greymouth looks like a town that
time has forgotten. A 1920s seaside down
that has been deteriorating ever since that heyday.
We walked
the streets in the rain looking for somewhere to eat, and it’s no exaggeration
to say that we walked them alone, not a soul joined us in braving the
admittedly shocking weather. After declining the culinary delights of a couple
of pubs that had seen better days, we settled on the only place that didn’t
look like a fire hazard. A quickly scoffed meal later we headed back to our van
that was taking a battering beachside to take shelter for the night - as much
from the eeriness of Greymouth itself as the weather.
Not so
bright but definitely early the following morning, we packed up and hit the
road again, North East away from the coast, towards Marlborough and onto
Picton.
We finally
had a journey that didn’t mostly comprise of a rally course. While some
stretches of highway were even straight, that didn’t take away from the drama
of the surroundings. Once we pulled away from the mountains we were into wine
country, acres and acres of vineyards left and right, in front and behind, as
far as the eye could see.
The sun and
blue sky returned just as the countryside turned to velvet. Rolling hills of
various shades of greens, yellows and browns guided us all the way into town.
Picton
itself is lovely. If I were to be mean I
could say it is what Greymouth should be. It’s a port town, spic and span, with
plenty of life about the place. Only having the evening there before the ferry
crossing in the morning, we made a bee line to the port and its park to let
Sanne have a well deserved run around.
While we
were tending to our daughter’s needs as if she were a cocker spaniel we struck
up a conversation with a man pushing his daughter on the swings. If there ever
was an example of how open and chatty the Kiwis are it was this, within 10
minutes we had his life story, not long returned after 10 years working in Australia,
he now had sole custody of his 2 and a half year old daughter after her mother
had just upped and left. It was one of those meetings that you think back on
ten or twenty years later and wonder how their life will have worked out.
We settled
down for the night once again after a day and a half of driving, happy in the
knowledge that with the exception of a getting the van on and off the ferry in
the morning, we had a few days on solid ground ahead of us.
Tomorrow we
would leave the epic South island behind and cross the Cook Straight to New
Zealand’s capital – Wellington.
Wellington sounds like fun, in comparison to Greymouth.
ReplyDeleteGreymouth.... I remember a thunderstorm so powerful it made my teeth chatter. And it caused a power outage while I was cooking my dinner. And that caused the sharing of food and life stories with the only other couple in that hostel. Years later I visited them in Chiang Mai.
ReplyDeleteDid you get the green mussels in Picton?